Robinson Crusoe Island

Robinson Crusoe Island
March 11, 2018

Leaving Valdivia

This is the first attempt to add to our blog, Sailing Aboard Schooner Motu, for some months. One of the many joys of cruising, (we will forego a discussion of the less joyful moments at this time), is being away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life in so many parts of the world.  Unfortunately, Marja and I cannot escape the calling of the internet, and wanting to connect with family and friends, which is another joy, but not so joyous when using internet in many places.

When we were a lot younger, we did a seven and half year circumnavigation on a Cal 2-27 sailboat.  This was in the era when everything was done without electronics, let alone the Internet.  We could go months before aerograms were sent and received (sometimes never).

The lack of good Internet is our excuse for lack of recent blogs and we’re sticking with it.

Anyhow,  we decided some months ago while in Valdivia, Chile, that we would return to the United States for this coming summer (in Northern Hemisphere).  One important reason was Marja’s 90 year old Mom and also we would like to replace some gear on Motu without having to pay a minimum of double in import fees.

We had big discussions about the best way to get to Southern California from Southern Chile.  We were tempted by going to the Gambiers, the Marquesas, Hawaii and finally Southern Cal.  but alas, this is really a lot of miles.  This route would be the one for going to the Pacific Northwest or Alaska.

We decided that Valdivia, Robinson Crusoe Island, Galapagos, Mexico and San Diego would work, even though we hate that beat up the Baja coast.

The Wedding

Before making the jump, however, we took a little side trip - via Boeing - to attend the wedding of a very dear friend, Annie Nebauer, in Australia.  Annie is more a family member than a friend, as is her whole family, so off we went with a quick stop in New Zealand to visit more wonderful friends in Auckland area, and then to Sydney and ultimately Jervis Bay for the fantastic Annie and Kenny Saether wedding.

After a horrible return trip we won’t go into, we finally left Valdivia the 16th of January for Robinson Crusoe (Juan Fernandez) and had a rather unpleasant trip.

First we had 3 meter seas and too little wind and then 3 meter seas with a lot of wind, albeit, behind us.  We arrived in Cumberland Bay, which is an open roadstead, with bullets coming off the mountains and our engine overheating  (bad thermostat) as we tried to get into the anchorage. We zigged  and we zagged  for several hours because if we had enough sail up to make progress, we would nearly get knocked down.  We finally called the Armada, who runs the harbor, and told them we were going to continue onto Mexico.  The Navy didn’t like that idea and sent a small patrol craft with huge engines to tow us to a mooring.  This proved once again to us that the Chilean Navy is a model of what every world Navy should be.  They confirmed that it is impossible to sail into the bay under these conditions.  In fact we waited a day to go ashore for final check in because the gusts were so strong, and our 2 HP Yamaha might not have been up to the task!



Robinson Crusoe Island is a fascinating place with a challenging anchorage.  It was here Alexander Selkirk chose to get off his sailing ship in a dispute with the captain and ended up being the inspiration to Daniel Defoe for Robinson Crusoe. The island was used by privateers and pirates as place to hid out, get water, and goats.   It was also here that the WWI sea battle took place between the German Cruiser Dresden and the British combatants Glasgow and Orama.  You can still see the projectiles stuck in the cliffs from the sea battle.  The Dresden was scuttled by her crew and sits in deep water (I think 50 to 60 meters) in Cumberland Bay.

Motu, French vessel Wallis and US vessel
Mar de Luz at Robinson Crusoe

Robinson Crusoe, and two nearby islands, are the only places in Chile with lobsters—big lobsters.  Unfortunately, we decided to wait for lobster until we get to Mexico since $33 a lobster seemed a bit pricy to us.

Projectile in the cliffs from WWI Sea Battle

Monument to Dresden in Cemetery

The town of San Juan Bautista is a charming place and with a number of surprisingly good restaurants and nice beer, in spite of having few tourists.  The island is mostly a national park so there are good walks.  We took the hike to the look out used by Selkirk to check for potential and British sailing vessels so he could get off the island.  The hike just about killed us but then again, Marja and I hadn’t been running around the island chasing goats for dinner.  This would have to get you in great shape.

After a week at the Island, with some days williwaws or rachas, as they call them in Chile, sweeping down into the anchorage at 30-40 knots, then several days of little wind, but rolling what felt like gunnel to gunnel, we decided it was time to head north.

Hiking to Selkirk Mirador

Hiking companion

There was great discussion and disagreement among the crew as to destination.  There was no plan to stop in the Galapagos, our Zarpe said Mexico.  Next installment takes us to the land of giant tortugas, scary looking marine iguanas, cute, curious, and playful fur seals, and of course the blue footed booby.