The Long Way South----Part Two

Nov. 14, 2016  still in Valdivia

Motu is full of water, fuel, and stores for three months but alas, the weather gods have decided to bring on one spring front after another.  We are trying to  leave here, go nine miles down the river, turn left for about 120 miles and somehow find a favorable current for going through the Chacao Channel where currents can hit nine knots.  The Chacao Channel will dump us into the Bay Ancud with scenery much like you would find in the Bay of Islands in New Zealand.  We are learning that one must have a great deal of patience if one is to sail in these Southern waters.

Rain is currently belting down and we are still tied securely to the dock at Alwoplast boatbuilders.  This is a good time to continue the telling of our voyage so far to here.

As mentioned in last post, we left Ecuador in early February to make a straight shot along the coast---between 10 to 200 miles offshore---against the prevailing wind and the Humboldt current.  We left in late summer  here on the advice of OCC members Bob and Betsy Bailey on Belair and Tom and Dorothy Wadlow on Joyant.  The idea is you get less wind as you start getting into fall.  This was good advice as we really had little bad weather but the current and adverse wind would have gotten quite tiresome but for being able to stop and explore various ports and anchorages down the coast of Chile as far as Valdivia.

Sunset leaving the coast of Ecuador

A young visitor on our way down the Peruvian coast.  

We saw hundreds of small fishing boats off the coasts of
Ecuador and Peru.

Closing the Atacama Desert coast of Chile.

Our first port in Chile, Iquique.  The evening sun turned
the desert mountains red.  Nothing grows in the Atacama.
Nothing.  It never rains.

In the desert, Historical Site Humberstone, a museum of the
Saltpeter (gun powder) industry in Chile 1800-1960.  

Our entrance into Iquique went very smoothly
thanks to Patricio Vargas Herrera, Harbormaster
at the Club de Yates, Iquique.  He also was
our tour director and taxi driver and all around
lifesaver.  

                           

Wind predicted to increase so pulled
into Caleta Cobre, where a small mining
operation was underway.  The desert
here is amazing.

Caleta Cobre - 24.14 South

                                                                                                         

Entering Port Caldera - Fueling stop

MOTU was moving very slowly - discovered goose barnacles
galore when Stephen went over the side to check out the
bottom.  In his Captain America dive suit.  Unfortunately he
didn't scare the barnacles away.  Water temp about 46 F!

Next stop Pichinangui.  Lovely little harbor behind some rocky
islets - and penguins on the islet!!  Picked up a mooring
and Club de Yates very helpful

About 45 miles south of Pichinangui, in ConCon is the
Higuerillas Marina and Club de Yates.  The marina was
badly damaged in an August storm in 2015 and much
work was going on to put it back together.  Great place from which
to visit Vina del Mar and Valparaiso.

The harbor and hills of Valparaiso

                       

Ascensor Artilleria - built in the late 1800s!  The Ascensores
of Valparaiso allow you to ascend to the various neighborhoods
without climbing hundreds of stairs.

Street Art of Valparaiso

                                                                                                 

DOWNWIND SAIL!!!!! FINALLY!!!

And a rip-roaring, wet one at that.  

Anchored off the Armada docks in Talcahuano, in Bahia Concepcion

Colorful fishing vessels off of Tumbes, near Talcahuano

We made wonderful friends while in Talcahuano, awaiting a good weather window.   Navy
Chief Andres Palma drove us all over looking for fan belts and oil filters
and then we visited his family home.

 And Chief Petty Officer Louis and his wife Marcela,
invited us into their home for a lovely meal and visit.  Louis
was most helpful in guiding us through the Armada requirements.